Publication: California Apparel News – Vol. 54, No. 50
Date: November 20–26, 1998
Location: Los Angeles, CA
Author: Alison A. Nieder
Transcription from California Apparel News:
Turning to Tencel
Carushka Rings in 20th Anniversary with New Lines, Fabric
By Alison A. Nieder
REPORTER
Exercise wear manufacturer Carushka Bodywear is marking its 20th year in business by revamping its freestanding retail store and by rolling out new lines made from Tencel-blend fabrics.
Van Nuys, Calif.-based Carushka is using a Tencel/Lycra blend for a five-piece collection based on the company’s original “retro” styling, according to assistant designer Kim Speth. The retro collection will include a wide-leg capri pant, a boxy hooded top, a bodysuit with a lower-cut leg, a boat-neck top with three-quarter-length sleeves and a dance pant. A Tencel/nylon/Lycra blend is used for the company’s two “futuristic” items: a hipster boot-cut pant and a sleek zip-front jacket in what Speth calls a “Star Trek look.”
Carushka is on the edge of the latest design evolution for Tencel, which has been used primarily for woven fabrics since its introduction in 1992 by British fiber manufacturer, Courtaulds Fibers Inc. But mills have more recently been offering knitted Tencel and Tencel blends. The synthetic fabric is made from wood pulp and shares some similarities with other cellulose fibers such as cotton. For example, Tencel is breathable and absorbent. The fabric is also strong, colorfast and has minimal shrinkage, but its soft hand was the primary reason it was chosen for Carushka, said Speth.
Unexpected Fabrications
This isn’t the first time Carushka has used unexpected fabrications. The company carried a line of cotton/cashmere bodywear as well as bodywear in other non-traditional fabrics such as stretch velvet, faux fur and stretch twill.
And while the decision to deploy Tencel has Carushka “really excited about the fabric,” according to Speth, some performance fabrics will also be used in the line, including DuPont’s CoolMax and GreenOrange’s Activa. CoolMax is a 100 percent polyester fabric that wicks moisture away from the body. Activa is also a moisture-management fabric but is made from microfiber polyester and cotton.
The company’s founder, Carushka Jarecka, launched the line in 1978. The small company employs about 50 people who design, produce and ship the line—120 SKUs—from the Van Nuys factory.
‘Whole Day’ Bodywear
Jarecka started out with the idea that her clothing would be both workout clothing and everyday clothing, according to Speth.
“Carushka had the idea to put on a unitard and just put pieces over it,” Speth said. “People want clothing that can take them through the whole day.”
Today, the company’s customer base is split between the hardcore fitness buff and one who exercises but not as fanatically, Speth said. The company’s catalog is divided along those lines, with sections labeled by fabric and by activity.
Carushka also sells in specialty boutiques, such as Newport Beach, Calif.-based Dancegear, which has carried the line for about eight years, according to owner Maria Kelley.
“It’s one of our most popular lines with people who work out… It covers a broad spectrum because a lot of the clothing they can wear out [of the gym],” she said. “It’s not just for the hardcore customer, it really crosses over.” In particular, Kelley said, the velvet items are popular for Holiday and the Tencel items and basic items are popular for everyday.
Spiritual Emphasis
There are also two Carushka boutiques in the L.A. area, a mall location in the Beverly Center and a freestanding store in Sherman Oaks. The freestanding store was recently remodeled using “feng shui,” the ancient Chinese method of design and placement for spiritual harmony. A 20th-anniversary party planned for early ’99 will be held at the Sherman Oaks store. This emphasis on the spiritual is also evident in the company’s catalog, which includes inspirational messages, some culled from famous quotations, others uncredited. The first time the owner ran one of these messages—a prayer for sharing and receiving—there was some concern within the company about how customers would respond, Speth said. But after receiving letters from customers asking for more quotes and messages, they became a regular feature. The practice eventually expanded to include notes and comments from customers, Speth said.
Customer comments also make their way into the Carushka line. Customer service reps keep notebooks by their desks to record suggestions from customers that are then raised in design meetings.
Customers were recently asked to fill out a marketing questionnaire in order to qualify for a drawing for a $500 Carushka wardrobe. The company received over 700 responses, giving a description of the Carushka customers: women 25 to 35 years old, half of whom are married, some with children. They are well-educated and most are professionally employed, Speth said.